Buying guide

PSS vs stuffing box vs lip seals

Every inboard boat seals the shaft one of three ways. Here's an honest comparison — including the things a dripless seal asks of you, not just the things it fixes.

Face seal vs packing gland

Drips

PSS dripless seal

Zero at rest and under way once run in

Traditional stuffing box

Must drip to stay cool — typically several drips a minute under way

Shaft wear

PSS dripless seal

None — seals at its own lapped faces; O-rings rotate with the shaft

Traditional stuffing box

Packing slowly scores the shaft, especially if over-tightened

Routine attention

PSS dripless seal

None day-to-day; inspect 6-monthly

Traditional stuffing box

Regular adjustment; repack every few seasons

Bilge condition

PSS dripless seal

Dry — no salt crust, no damp smell

Traditional stuffing box

Permanently damp bilge by design

Scheduled service

PSS dripless seal

Bellow kit every 6 years (haul-out required)

Traditional stuffing box

Repacking is cheap and can be done in the water

Field repair

PSS dripless seal

Limited in the water — carry a maintenance kit; faces can be cleaned in place

Traditional stuffing box

Can be repacked or emergency-tightened afloat

Failure mode

PSS dripless seal

Neglected bellow can fail suddenly — which is why the 6-year rule exists

Traditional stuffing box

Degrades gradually and visibly

Heat & speed

PSS dripless seal

Water-lubricated faces, rated 10,000 RPM (water feed above 12 kn)

Traditional stuffing box

Friction heat rises with speed; packing glazes if run dry

Worn shafts

PSS dripless seal

Seals fine on scored or lightly pitted shafts

Traditional stuffing box

Scoring worsens leaks; may need shaft repair

Cost over 12 years

PSS dripless seal

Seal + two maintenance kits

Traditional stuffing box

Packing is cheap — but a scored shaft is not

We sell against ourselves here on purpose: a well-tended stuffing box is a fine piece of kit, and its in-water serviceability is a real advantage. What it can never give you is a dry bilge and an unscored shaft.

Where lip seals fit in

Rubber lip seals (the Volvo-style cartridge type) are the third option: cheap, compact and dripless when new. Their weakness is that the seal rides directly on the spinning shaft — the lip needs a perfectly smooth surface to seal against, wears a groove into the shaft over time, and chars in seconds if it runs dry.

The PSS approach moves the sealing surface off the shaft entirely: the lapped carbon and stainless faces do the sealing, while the rotor's O-rings sit statically on the shaft and rotate with it. That's why a PSS can be fitted over a shaft already scored by old packing or a previous lip seal — and why face seals routinely last several times longer.

  • PSS tolerates worn or pitted shafts; lips demand a clean surface
  • PSS carbon survives brief dry running; rubber lips don't
  • Floating carbon absorbs misalignment that wears lips unevenly
  • Lips are cheaper upfront and some allow in-water spare carriers
PSS Shaft Seal — the lapped faces seal, not the shaft surface

Comparison FAQs

Is a dripless seal safer than a stuffing box?

Both are safe when maintained, and both can sink a boat when neglected. A stuffing box fails gradually and visibly; a face seal asks for almost nothing day-to-day but is unforgiving of a perished bellow or a blocked water feed. The PSS answer is engineering plus discipline: inspect six-monthly, renew the bellow every six years, and the documented record — PSS quotes 200,000+ Type A units in service — is excellent.

Why not just fit a lip seal? They're cheaper.

Lip seals ride directly on the shaft, so they demand a perfectly smooth surface, wear a groove into it over time, and burn quickly if run dry. A carbon face seal routinely outlasts a lip seal several times over, because the wear surface is the lapped faces — not the shaft or a rubber lip. The PSS seals at its own faces instead — it tolerates the worn shafts, minor misalignment and vibration that defeat lips, and a short dry run won't melt it.

I have a soft-mounted engine that moves around - which seal handles that?

The PSS is well suited to it. The bellow absorbs fore-aft movement, and the carbon is deliberately over-bored so it floats with minor radial movement — a good match for soft mounts and CV/thrust-bearing drivelines. The shaft should still run near-centred through the log; if your setup is extreme, send us the details and we'll confirm fit.

Can I convert from a stuffing box without pulling the shaft?

Usually, yes. The boat must be hauled and the coupling removed, but the shaft normally stays in the boat — the PSS slides on in place of the old gland and clamps to the same stern tube. The whole retrofit is typically a haul-out morning for an experienced fitter. See our installation guide for the full sequence.

Thinking about converting?

Send us your shaft size, stern tube OD and how the boat is used — we'll give you a straight recommendation and a quote, usually from stock.

Luxfords is an authorised PSS dealer holding one of Australia's largest ranges in stock — most shaft and stern tube combinations are on the shelf, so we can usually have you sorted straight away.

(03) 5973 6444

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